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Land of the Thunder Dragon (Bhutan: Part 1)

Sep 16, 2024 Trips

Bhutan, the “Land of the Thunder Dragon,” is known for its wilderness, Buddhist culture, and traditional ways. And maybe it’s not known for it, but the people I met in my two weeks there were among the most hospitable I’ve met anywhere while traveling.

Bhutan is a landlocked country bordered by China and India with Nepal and Bangladesh not far away. Bhutan only opened up to tourism in the 1970s. In the 1990s, only a few thousand visited per year. It may be best known for its focus on GNH, or Gross National Happiness, rather than the traditional GDP (Gross Domestic Product) measure of economic output. It sees tourists as a way to support this through what it describes as “high-value tourism” which has a minimum daily spend to ensure the overall impact of tourism is positive.

You may also know Bhutan for its famous Tiger’s Nest Monastery, a Buddhist monastery seemingly clinging to a cliff (picture below). It is probably the most iconic monastery in the country, perhaps the world. 

With any travel, there is always so much more to see and experience. Similarly, my photos and captions cannot do my time there justice though I’ll give it a try. I’ll give an overview of the places and architecture in this post. In next week’s (or, let’s be honest, probably in a few weeks), I’ll share photos of the monasteries and people we met.

Prayer flags fluttering in the wind overlooking the Taktsang Monastery, commonly known as Tiger’s Nest Monastery. The hike there – the only way to get there is via trail – covers several miles and a couple thousand feet of elevation gain. You can visit the actual monastery but photos inside are prohibited (you actually have to leave your camera equipment at the entrance). Legend has it that Guru Rinpoche flew to this location on the back of a tigress, hence the name.
Punakha Dzong in Punakha. A dzong is a fortress-monastery. They were military fortresses in the past and today they serve as both an administrative center for government and as a monastery. Exploring the interiors you’ll see government offices on one side and monks praying on the other. Dzongs are emblematic of Bhutanese culture, which melds the two together. They are located in most valleys/regions of Bhutan.
Punakha Dzong in Punakha
Punakha Dzong in Punakha
An interior courtyard of Jakar Dzong.
Prayer flags are heavily associated with the Himalayan region, often seen fluttering high on mountain passes. They carry significant religious meaning with each color symbolizing an element with mantras typically printed on them. (Blue represents the sky, white represents the air, red represents fire, green represents water, and yellow represents earth. Together they signify balance.)
Dochula Pass. Here, 108 stupas (108 is an auspicious number in Buddhism) honor Bhutanese soldiers who lost their lives in 2003 fighting insurgents. In a country where we think of history in centuries, it was fascinating to visit a site with such recent historical significance.  
Much like prayer flags, prayer wheels can be found everywhere in Bhutan, from smaller ones in a row like seen in this photo to large, room-sized ones that you walk around. A mantra is written on them and it is believed that when you spin the wheel – always from right to left, or clockwise if you were to walk around it – it has the same effect as orally reciting the prayer.
Paro, Bhutan. One of the main valleys of Bhutan and where the only international airport is located. Thimphu, the capital, is about an hour’s drive away.
A traditional Bhutanese home. Architecture styles are heavily regulated by the government and you’ll see homes like this across the country. The ground floor traditionally was used to house cattle, though that was discontinued later for sanitary reasons. Today, the first floor is typically used as a storehouse. The second floor is the primary living quarters while the third floor, open to the wind, is often used for drying hay.
Ura Valley.
One local I met. Yaks are a common part of Bhutanese life – they provide everything from milk to fiber to fuel and fertilizer. This one was part of a larger herd on a mountain pass where a nomadic couple tended to them (more photos to come in a future newsletter). 

All photos from April 2024.

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