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The Ocean Endeavour

The Ocean Endeavour

This is the fourth post on Antarctica. Prior posts focused on the landscapes and wildlife of Antarctica, plus Deception Island.

The Ocen Endeavour is an expedition-class ship that bounces between the poles depending on season (i.e. summer in each). It operates under long-term contracts with different tour operators (I went with Intrepid Travel).

Built originally in 1981 in Poland and has been refitted (and renamed) several times before becoming the Ocen Endeavour in 2014. It holds roughly 200 passengers (a common limit for Antarctic vessels) plus boat crew and expedition staff.

The Ocean Endeavour as seen from our zodiac boat.
Deception Island

Deception Island

This is the third post on Antarctica. Prior posts focused on the landscapes and wildlife of Antarctica.

Deception Island, in the South Shetland Islands, was the first official stop we made after crossing the Drake Passage en route to the Antarctic Peninsula. It’s a relatively safe harbor, being surrounded on most sides because… it’s an active volcano. The entrance into the caldera passes through a narrow gap called Neptune’s Bellows with a submerged rock, Raven’s Rock, guarding the entrance (it makes you wonder how many boats have hit that in the past – luckily not our own).

That volcanic activity eventually led to it being abandoned. It started as a whaling station in the early 1900s, but when the price of whale oil collapsed in the 1930s it was abandoned. Various research stations have occupied the island, though the last two permanent stations left in the 1960s after two different periods of volcanic activity.

Today, there are still researchers during the summer with seismic activity constantly monitored. More so, the main visitors today are us tourists.

Neptune’s Bellows, the entrance to Deception Island (from inside the caldera).
Antarctica Wildlife

Antarctica Wildlife

In the last post, I shared my favorite landscape captures from my Antarctica trip. This week, I’m sharing my favorite wildlife photos. 

Spring in Antarctica is an incredible time. Not only is everything still pristine from the winter snow and ice, but it’s when the whole food web springs to life. As the ice recedes, light can reach the plankton. As the plankton grows, it supports the many animals reliant on it for food, including krill. The large quantity of krill is what supports much sea life, including whales*. The increased food supply is what also supports the extra food needs for nesting and young offspring.

We were fortunate to have seen many species of penguins, seals, and birds, plus a few whales. We saw penguins on two different shore landings and saw seals while cruising around in the zodiac boats. Birds were everywhere, from the Drake Passage to the harbours we sailed into.

Here are just a fraction of the photos that I took :).

* This is why whales often arrive later in the summer season, once their enough food to support them. We did see some whales, though it was too early in the season to see them in great numbers.

All photos from November 2023. Locations include Portal Point, Freud Passage, Danco Island, Neko Harbour, Orne Harbour, and the Southern Ocean.

This is one of my favorite seal images of the trip as you can see not only the seal in the broader landscape, but you can see the path they took out of the water to their resting spot. 
Antarctica Landscapes

Antarctica Landscapes

My interest in photography started with landscapes and, while I’ve branched out into other areas (e.g., wildlife, travel), at my core, I still love landscapes the best. 

I’m particularly drawn to wide-open, seemingly barren, landscapes. Some of my favorite trips, and photos, are from places like Iceland, Norway, and the Faroe Islands. 

So, when Antarctica became a potential trip it was the idea of this snow and ice-covered landscape that excited me most. The penguins were pretty cool, too (see the forthcoming Part 2 where I’ll cover wildlife) and it’s fun to say I’ve checked off another continent, but these vistas with this light was sublime. 

All photos from November 2023. Locations include Deception Island (old whaling station), Portal Point, Freud Passage, Danco Island, Neko Harbour, Orne Harbour, and the Southern Ocean.

 An Estancia in Argentina

 An Estancia in Argentina

An estancia is a private farm or ranch used to farm or raise livestock, and you’ll find many dotted across the Patagonia region. On a recent trip, I made it a goal to get out of the main town and visit one. Luckily, many are open in various forms to tourists now and I was able to find a local guide to take me.

On this particular estancia several generations of the family reside, as well as a few additional employees at times. It is a rather lean operation, staffing up at key times, such as sheep shearing in the spring (the southern spring, our fall). I met the father and his son who welcomed me in their home with coffee and homemade bread, both cooked in their wood-fired oven. They have lived and worked this estancia their entire lives with the father’s dad having started it nearly 100 years ago. It’s unclear if it will continue solely in family hands, however, as the next generation was off living in Buenos Aires and attending school, “studying computers.” Dad seemed disappointed he wasn’t studying agriculture, however – “You should learn how to grow your own food so you never go hungry,” he remarked.

After coffee, they took me on a tour of the farm. Their sheep herds have been devastated by wild dogs in recent years. They’ve been trying everything to protect them, most recently by training their own dogs to watch over them, which seems to be working. Next, I was taken into the nearly 100-year-old barn where they recently sheared the sheep for the season. The equipment is nearly 90 years old and still in use.

It was a partially sunny yet cool and windy day there, just as I had pictured the windswept land of Patagonia. I could get the sense, even on a relatively nice day like this, how the harsh climate and ever-shifting weather really shape life here. Or as the son described it, “you can tell the weather is single because it does what it wants.”

All photos from November 2023.

A stop at Lago Fagnano on the way there, where we enjoyed a little mate (a classic South American herbal drink) and the view.